THE WORLD'S GREATEST PERFUMERS
As the hidden talents behind the world’s greatest perfume hits, our Perfume Designers bear the legitimacy of illustrious careers. They collaborate with Frédéric Malle on the basis of mutual professional respect, as well as a personal relationship developed over time.
The Perfumer
DOMINIQUE ROPION
Dominique Ropion is a daring perfectionist, a true inventor. The risks he takes are invariably accompanied by a relentless pursuit of exact olfactory balance and flawless composition.
His perfumes are like great architectural feats: in the same way that a bridge, whose seemingly miraculous suspension of weight is in fact a harnessing of counteracting forces, Dominique often balances excessive doses of powerful ingredients with meticulously-measured, subtler accords, until the composition holds up on its own. A good perfume, he likes to say, must always appear obvious. This is master perfumer Dominique Ropion at his best: bold, inventive, yet immaculately precise. Magnetic, timeless - the portrait of a lady.
The Perfumer
Jean-Claude Ellena
Jean-Claude has revisited the eau de cologne structure throughout his long career, always employing his signature precision and restraint. His style of perfumery is an ode to quiet, exquisite minimalism: if it were rendered into sound, it would be chamber music. If it were art, a precise watercolour sketch. And so when Frédéric asked him to reinvent the eau de cologne, Jean-Claude’s response was compellingly succinct. He began by commissioning LMR, a laboratory known for their world-class expertise in natural extraction, to develop a very specific ingredient: a bitter orange oil, specially treated so that it could be used at an extremely high concentration.
The Perfumer
Anne Flipo
She grew up in the Northeast of France surrounded by verdant gardens, and from a young age, had an unusual sensitivity to the natural world and the season’s changes: to weather, to seasons, to life cycle. She has never made a secret of her addiction to floral ad green palettes, making her a natural choice to compose Synthetic Jungle, her first work for Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.
The Perfumer
Pierre Bourdon
As Edmond Roudnitska’s only student, Pierre Bourdon was informed early on by the philosophy that perfumes should be created as works of art. With this in mind, Pierre went on to revolutionize perfume trends in the 1980s with his men’s perfume “Cool Water” for Davidoff. That was when he met Frédéric Malle. Having realized that they shared the same vision of perfume making, the two became like family to one another. It was obvious to Frédéric, when he created Editions de Parfums, that Pierre should compose its first perfume, Iris Poudre.
The Perfumer
Olivia Giacobetti
Frédéric Malle’s collaboration with Olivia Giacobetti began in 2000. She was the first woman to enter the exclusive circle of the world’s best perfumers chosen by the publisher of perfumes to compose the classics of tomorrow. Frédéric Malle chose her for the qualities of her perfume writing: a modern writing style that doesn’t follow fashions.
The Perfumer
Maurice Roucel
Maurice Roucel joined Chanel’s laboratory as a chemist in 1973, and since then has been a self-taught perfumer. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality – sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber – the precise methodology of his original profession has remained.
The Perfumer
Bruno Jovanovic
As Edmond Roudnitska’s only student, Pierre Bourdon was informed early on by the philosophy that perfumes should be created as works of art. With this in mind, Pierre went on to revolutionize perfume trends in the 1980s with his men’s perfume “Cool Water” for Davidoff. That was when he met Frédéric Malle. Having realized that they shared the same vision of perfume making, the two became like family to one another. It was obvious to Frédéric, when he created Editions de Parfums, that Pierre should compose its first perfume, Iris Poudre.
The Perfumer
Carlos Benaim
Carlos Benaïm is considered to be America’s greatest living perfumer. He owes his success to a great intellectual curiosity that has always pushed him to embrace a world beyond the boundaries of perfume making. He discovered perfumery as a child through his father, who was a pharmacist in Morocco and had a passion for extracting essential oils.
The Perfumer
Julien Rasquinet
Julien Rasquinet’s life took a decisive turn when his father met nose extraordinaire Pierre Bourdon, by accident in an airport. Rasquinet who didn’t know anything about perfumery beyond his own passion for it, called Bourdon, who decided to take him instead of thousands of other candidates to be his last student, and bare his legacy, as Edmond Roudnitska had done with him. Call it perfumer’s intuition.
The Perfumer
Michel Roudnitska
Michel Roudnitska spent his childhood exploring his parents’ laboratory, where perfume became his mother tongue. His was initiated by his father, the illustrious Edmond Roudnitska, into the art of perfume composition. Later, he broadened his artistic horizons by becoming a photographer and director. He established the creation studio Art & Parfumin 1997, where he creates perfumes with great aesthetic rigor.
The Perfumer
Ralf Schweiger
Ralf Schwieger once took part in a perfume contest that Frédéric Malle had staged for young perfumers. Having spent his childhood in Germany exploring forests and absorbing all of their unusual smells, Ralph is prone to creating perfumes with unexpected personalities. He describes his attitude to perfume making as a game in two parts, whose first is intellectual or conceptual, and whose second is a lengthier one of sensory research. His perfumes, as a result, are both cerebral and intuitive.
The Perfumer
Sophia Grojsman
As a child, in Belarus, this perfume queen-to-be would run around the garden smelling roses and jasmine, leaving her toys untouched, dismissed. After studying chemistry at university, she emigrated to New York and joined the IFF laboratories where she learned the art of perfumery under the guidance of Ernest Shiftan, one of the greatest American perfumers in history. Sophia was the first perfumer to inverse classical proportions of ingredients in perfumes, having discovered that an overdose of a certain ingredient could propel it to the top of the perfume’s structure.
The Perfumer
Fanny Bal
Fanny Bal is a force of nature. As Dominique Ropion’s apprentice, she has access to the finest raw materials in the industry and some of its best-kept secrets; and yet, she is constantly surprising her seniors, first at ISIPCA, then at IFF, with her own independent initiatives and rigorous.
The Perfumer
Edmond Roudnitska
Edmond Roudnitska is remembered today as one of the most important perfumers in history: as a ""perfumer composer"" and the inventor of modern perfumery. His encounter in the 1950s with Serge Heftler-Louiche, the founder of Parfums Christian Dior and Frédéric Malle’s grandfather, was decisive. Together they created many legendary perfumes: “Eau Fraîche”, “Diorissimo”, “Diorella”, and most famous of all, “Eau Sauvage”, whose launch coincided with the public’s recognition of Edmond as the first “nose” of the perfume industry.
The Perfumer
Edouard Fléchier
In Edouard Fléchier's skilled hands, the classic scent of rose morphs into something dramatic and sensual.
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